Although a few techniques overlaps there are a number of significant differences between laying bricks and concrete better blocks concrete blocks are much stronger than bricks especially when steel rods and concrete are laid into them love about delay two different types of walls with concrete blocks the first one will be the front basement wall of my house and this will have to be waterproof the second one is a retaining wall to go here that will support this side of the timber deck I'm going to build off the house this wall has to be waterproof in fact I'm actually going to encourage the water one proof you have to give controlling groundwater serious considerations when constructing a retaining wall because it's not just the fill that will push the wall over the main thing that will push it over is hydraulic pressure when that gets wet so you can control the water you leave the pressure the mortar mix the concrete block is different to what you use when laying bricks the mortar here needs to be weaker than the concrete blocks themselves so that any undue stress will prep them water rather than the blocks themself make sure you use the proper brick line double washed sand in the correct ratio as we're flying brick but this washing detergent in your water to give your mod of elasticity in to help us flow smoothly off the prow which can be late from both ends of a wall towards the middle because any uneven gaps can be filled in by cutting bricks to the specific size however with hollow concrete blocks it's much easier if you avoid odd sized pieces and make your wall to a full or half block when start laying your first course at one end and go all the way to the other to ensure this is the case after you've laid your first course you can build up your end and use a string line make yourself a coarse height gauge like Opie's with drip lines most blocks are $199 so you have 10 mil for the mortar you're not this every 200 millimetres I use the hacksaw so the market won't rub off because concrete blocks have a hollow Center you can't lay mortar onto the middle of the night you do with bricks as I showed in my previous tutorial a different route technique is required based on the mortar board and the block itself you have to use rock again this is a solid to a Syrian ship or really just an spinner take a slice of mortar and roll it from side to side to form a sausage the length of your trowel and scoop it up on the edge of the block with the tip of your trail and slice downwards to leave the sausage on the block cut our half sausages on your mortarboard before depositing across the concrete blocks I like steel reinforcing rods into my house slab and foundations every 400 millimetres or every two block lengths this wall is going to be 2.8 meters high but the rods are shorter at this point in construction because it would have been impractical to lift the blocks over anything taller I'll add to the steel rods as the wall goes up as the blocks are laid or pour concrete into them at these points these pillars will apply the blocks together and add incredible strength about half of my concrete blocks have this cutout in them which allows the laying of steel reinforcing bars horizontally every two or three courses this adds to the wall strength yet again for even more strength I'll lay external block piers going out towards the dirt film along with a central internal brick wall these ties will lock in all joining brick walls of the house to the concrete block wall [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] although you could paint this wall with bitumen paint it's much quicker to use pool liner plastic to waterproof this basement wall of the house this membrane has to go into the drainage trench of dug below the level of the slab agricultural drainpipes with an anti sediment sock goes into the trench and is covered with washed gravel the pipe has to go right on the bottom of the trench otherwise it won't catch the water and drain it away a layer of sediment catching cloth goes on top of the wash gravel to stop its silting up this drainage barrier will now be continued with rocks bricks and more gravel right to the top of the wall as it's built and now for something completely different the bottom three courses on this retaining wall are different to the wall on the house because I want the groundwater to go through this one in the first two or three courses are like blocks on their side away from where the steel rods are positioned and I won't put any mortar on the ends leaving weep holes between the blocks doing this means no egg piping is needed in the gravel fill behind this wall [Music] you [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] as I said earlier in this video rather than pouring the peers within the flop wall in one go I'm going to do it in stages just because it's easier I'll make sure that I only pour the concrete to a half-block height so that as I added each section it will lock in and I'll add more fill but getting the concrete in the hole out of a wheelbarrow or a shovel is a pretty sloppy affair I couldn't find any of your work so I made my own funnel Bob's your uncle only I will try the concrete in there and you need something like this because your mix needs to be very wet sloppy to make sure penetrates properly.
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